List of things that should be fixed in the autumn/winter/spring 2021/2022

First of all, boat should be emptied. I will need boxes of different sizes (but some stackable solution, like those biltema boxes where it's possible to stack two small boxes on top of one big box) and a storage place for it.

I have an open insurance claim on the damaged/missing rail and cleat on the starboard side. I need a price quote for fixing it, and my insurance company should approve it before the work is started

Engine & misc

• diesel tank may contain some biological goo, should be inspected (if possible - depends on how much diesel there is in the tank - maybe we should procrastinate this until the tank is empty)
• engine and engine room should be cleaned
• does the engine leak oil? check and fix
• oil and filters should be replaced
• cooling liquid should probably be replaced
• maybe there are other maintenance tasks that should be done?

Hull & below water line

• The old anti-foul (black cupper painting) should be removed
• The hull should be inspected and checked for problems and moisture (I'd like to participate)
• Bow propellor should be inspected (it works very poorly - but expected to be electric problem)
• The keel should be inspected (it had a big crack going all the way around - and then it has been patched up a bit, is the work keeping up? is everything ok? do we have anything to worry about?)
• The rudder and wood around the rudder should be inspected
• There was the leakage around the exhaust pipe, I understand it was only temporarily fixed? Should be checked properly.
• There is a leakage in the bow (just above the water line). Our two attempts on patching with epoxy and glass fibre seems to have failed. Should be fixed more properly.
• Check up the anchor chain box behind. There was a sea water leakage into the bed there, but apparently I've fixed it? (I'll do this myself)
• New anti-foul, when everything is properly dried up

Works above the water line

• Remove old teak deck (I'd like to participate)
• Check for moisture and rotten wood (I'd like to participate)
• Remove varnish where there is moisture under the varnish (though, not much work involved - the varnish falls off by itself when the wood is moist).
• Replace rotten wood (particularly in the bow)
• The navigation lights in front should be mounted more properly (including a proper fix for the electric cables)
• New teak deck should be made (12mm is probably fine)
• repainting the bottom white line
• Varnishing (but I'll do that myself)
• Painting the upper white line white (but I'll probably do that myself)
• Stupid air and water intake port side should only be an air intake
• Tubes for ropes for adjusting the main sail sheet rail wagon is letting water in when it's raining - suggestions welcome (if I varnish more properly, maybe we can just ignore the "problem")
• Cockpit tent needs some maintenance
• Handles for the deck window in front are leaking water
• It's needed with a system so it's easy to open the deck window a little bit and let it stay open (the original solution was too fragile) (I can probably fix this myself).
• Anchor winch is again not working (could be electrical connection problem, but probably not - I've tried checking that)

Interior work

• Electricity in the bow - there has been some problems there due to corroded contacts, it should be disconnected, cleaned properly and ensured that there is good contact
• Put some insulation on the inside where it's missing and where it's applicable
• Fix some of the electric lights (but I'll do that myself)
• Small leakage problem at the toilet
• Gas burner temperature fuse not good (at both sides now)
• Some freshwater system for the toilet behind: When the seacocks were replaced, a T-connection with a stopcock and an open hose was removed. It's need to be able to flush the flushing system with fresh water sometimes (and maybe also be able to add chemicals to the flushing circuit). I either need the old solution back, maybe even two t-connections and two stopcocks allowing me to rinse the system with fresh water without hassle, or maybe it's sufficient with a connection to the fresh water system..

Autopilot

• The whole system should maybe be replaced or upgraded. I'd prefer open software (meaning that I can hack on it myself) and open standards (so that I can add modules made by other than Raymarine - eventually even modules made by myself). Or perhaps it suffices to just upgrade the software and the maps of the old system. Suggestions are welcome.
• The ram drive probably should be replaced

44V battery systems

(those things should be fixed by me/jaro)

• 220v inverter does not work
• need one (or two) good 12v-converter(s) so I can charge the 12v battery from the 44v battery bank. (most important requirement: it should not break, trip a fuse, catch fire, explode or anything like that when it's being overloaded - rather, the output voltage should drop).
• need electric engine for the dhingy
• the new battery should be installed

More plumbing

(I can probably do most of this myself)

Most important, the water outlet by the wheel in the cockpit is by now just ending up inside the bed, it's needed to fix a better solution (the hull fitting there was canibalised for a bilge pump - it's either needed to make one more hull fitting). Also, I'm not much happy that the outlet is partly under the water line. Maybe it's possible to install a one-way valve? ("jokerventil" in Norwegian)

The rest is low priority:

• Perhaps it would be nice to make some extra loops with the engine cooling liquid circuit to provide a bit of heating in the floor
• There is always some water coming in through the propellor shaft. It would probably be nice to install some "precision pump" that can remove small amounts of water.
• Biltema pump in the engine room should probably be replaced (the float is too light-weight or adjusted wrongly - if there is any water there, the bilge pump starts up and never stops
• The eberspecher heating to the front cabin - it works, except that the air prefers to exit nearer to the heater, were there is less resistance. Maybe add an extra fan to the system (to be turned on/off when being inside the room).
• same with the aft cabin, but also the tube is completely crushed in the storage sheds. It needs to be replaced and protected.
• The water from the shower is running all the way through the boat, it's not optimal (too low grade of fall, water runs slowly even through a clean tube, tube can easily get clogged). A local gulper pump should probably be installed, together with a local hull fitting
• freshwater connections to the bow of the ship, have a shower available (hot + cold water) in the bow anchor box, plus the possibility to connect a water hose directly to the water system